Time to Raise a Mug to Oregon Beer

Jeff Alworth

One of the persistent, non-political themes on this blog has been beer.  This is only partly because Kari and I are known beerhounds.  It's also because beer is among those several key things that pull us together and mark us as Oregonians.  Long before it was actually true, the Henry Weinhard brewery captured in a commercial jingle this relationship:

Got the sun in the mornin' to get me out of bed,
Got an old hat to cover my head,
Got me a river runnin' by my door,
Got everything here, don't need no more...

Got two good reasons for livin' here:
The best country in the country and the country's best beer.

When micros began brewing in the 1980s, Oregon started living up to this slogan.  But though the beer was good, these tiny businesses weren't yet transforming the state into "Beervana." Obf It took some key events, and one of them was the Oregon Brewers Festival, which kicked off its 21st incarnation a few hours ago in Waterfront Park.  When the owners of BridgePort, Widmer, and Portland Brewing held what was essentially a kegger by the river back then, there were only 13 breweries and 16 beers.  They wanted to invite people down to the park to try this new-fangled "craft" beer.  At the time, there were only 124 craft breweries in the entire country.

In 2008, there are 90 breweries in Oregon alone--and 38 in Portland.  Oregon consumes more craft beer than any other state, and Portland, the 23rd-largest city, consumes more of it than any other town (total, not per-capita).  More than 40% of all beer consumed here is brewed here.  The Oregon Brewers Guild estimates the beer industry impact on Oregon's economy is $2.25 billion--and all of that money stays right here. 

But even more importantly, beer has become part of our culture.   I am sometimes shocked when I go to other parts of the country and find people who don't know the difference between a lager and an ale--never mind between a porter and an IPA.  In other parts of the country, pubs are filled with people drinking straw-pale light lagers, with perhaps a person or two with something darker.  Walk into a pub here, and you see every kind of beer in people's glasses--and you'll be lucky to see any light lagers.  Pubs now attract families and beer lovers, and flavor is celebrated above drunkenness.  And of course, now we do have the country's best beer--from Enterprise to Pacific City and Ashland to Astoria. 

When Art Larrance and his cohorts held the first fest one score and one ago, they were trying to promote craft beer; they did better than that--they helped create Beervana. This is the weekend of our annual suds sabbath, and if you are feeling oppressed by the noise, chaos, throngs, and long lines, remember what this fest has wrought, and raise your cheap plastic mug in thanks. Under the big tents at the OBF, we find our cathedral. So Cheers! Prost! Sláinte! L'Chaim!, and Happy 21st, OBF!

In the past, I've done a review of the fest, and if you're looking for one, check out my beer blog, where there's ongoing coverage.

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    I'll drink to that, Jeff!

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    My wife always gets mad at me when I ask wait staff what micro beers are on draft and they respond with none or something from out-of-state because I then lecture them on the restaurant's failings to consider the city and state where they are located. It still amazes me that in many Portland restaurants they push their wine list and don't have a beer list or even draft beers. Where do they think they are? Kansas?

  • stewart wershow (unverified)
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    Jeff, My wife encourages me to buy my beer locally. Do you have any recommendations? I plan to visit Portland tomorrow. I live in Corvallis.

  • Ten Bears (unverified)
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    I have written several times (and of course now I can't find them, must be the beer), most recently marking the twentyth anniversary of the Deschutes Brewery and Public House, that upon the death of the timber industry Oregon's craft brewers are what pulled us together through those dark recessionary years of the late eighties and early nineties. Oregonians are as fiercely loyal of their local brews as they were of the mills and log-towns of my youth.

    I myself will down to Waterfront Park Saturday, and Stewart, if you've the opportunity, head on out to Gresham and check out the Main Street Ale House - they have an in-house Belgium Wit (wheat) that is the best I've ever tasted.

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    Having just spent the first 6 hours of the Brewfest and planning to go back for a teeny bit more before it's over, I say cheers to Jeff's ongoing coverage!

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    Slainte, everybody!

    Wish I could join you in a mug, but I keep the faith down here in the ass end of America by grabbing a six-pack of Widmer Hefeweizen from my local Publix for $7...

    I'll go to my grave with a stomach full of that.

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    Stewart, if you want a lot of background, here's a link. More briefly: Bailey's Taproom for a great selection or Roots, Hopworks, or Laurelwood for beer.

    Jesse, what'd you like?

    Ten Bears, interesting analysis. I will say this: brewers wear a lot of flannel.

  • edison (unverified)
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    Thanks, Jeff! Great Beervana post today ( err .. yesterday ), too. Have you considered 'live-blogging' from the OBF?

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    Enjoy, folks. I'm missing the Oregon beer aesthetic from Chicago right now. I would gladly trade good hot dogs for good beer. Or patronage jobs.

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    I liked many, but being a hops fan, Pliny the Elder was my favorite.

    What should I try if I make it back after work today (unlike yesterday where I got to go early)?

  • Steve Hawley (unverified)
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    "The 2007 Oregon Legislature will be under Democratic control for the first time in 18 years, potentially opening the door for a state beer tax increase that has been locked out for 20 years by Republican leaders"

    So how goes your Democrat efforts to raise taxes on our favorite beverage?

    Always thinking about Joe 6-pack, that's what I like about democrats....

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    A couple of interesting facts:

    (1) Oregon is the second largest producer of hops in the country, which accounts in a very large part for the growth of craft beer production here.

    (2) The price of beer is a function of greed not the amount of tax raised for Oregon's educational system, public safety, roads, health care, etc. A beer offered for consumption at $4.50 per glass is overpriced (Newport Restaurants sell it for $5.50!). The purveyor is simply going to have to suck up the tax if she wants to sell beer at that price. The imposition of a realistic tax on beer is not a slam on Joe 6-pack but rather a tax on purveyors which they can't pass on if they want to compete. The time has come for Republicans to quit blocking progress while proclaiming sympathy for drinkers.

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    As one of the original BlueOregon taglines read: "With one eye on Bill Sizemore, and one eye on my beer..."

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    Edison--live blogging might be entertaining for the reader, as my descriptions slowly erode. But no, I will be entering the fest with only the intention to enjoy.

    Jesse, at a media tasting yesterday, my faves were Lagunitas Hop Stoopid (smelled like a pine cone!--great for hop lovers, but not too aggressive), Roots Calypso, which closely approximates the spicy flavors in the cuisine of the Carribean, Bells Porter, which is a perfect example of the style, and for a really off-beat choice, Rock Bottom Congo Queen, which has a pile of botanicals and is strangely minty and refreshing--a good mid-session beer. Rogue's Glen, named for the late, very great Glen Falconer (of the late Wild Duck brewery in Eugene) is also a very approachable strong ale.

    Steve, thanks for that '07 legislative prediction. I know it's kind of far into the future, but what do you think they'll do in '08?

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    I miss the good old days, frankly. The OBF has gotten so huge that it just isn't as fun as it was in the 80s. Of course, back then everything from out of town was exotic as hell and the OBF was pretty much the only way we'd experience those beers. And most of the participating breweries came up with something extra special just for the event.

  • Tom Civiletti (unverified)
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    What Oregon lacks is a good cheap beer. When I recently spent a few weeks in Pennsylvania visiting family, I found Yuengling Lager on draft in most of the restaurants I visited. It's the beer I drank there in the late 1970s - along with their Lord Chesterfield ale - and it's darn good beer that costs no more than the nationwide brand swill. I've tried some of the Henry's brews, and they don't measure up.

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    Hooray beer! Hooray OBF! Tomorrow will be my 2nd year as a volunteer pourer, and Mrs. Joe will pull her first ever shift Sunday. Tonight and tomorrow are my favorites, because you're slammed and the time goes faster--but the big draw is they let the pourers finish off kegs for free at the end of the night! Well worth it, IMO.

  • jak (unverified)
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    John writes: ...It still amazes me that in many Portland restaurants they push their wine list and don't have a beer list or even draft beers. Where do they think they are? Kansas?

    It's a shame some Portland restaurants don't offer great Oregon beers. Microbrew is taking over the country. Even in Kansas there are great microbreweries. One of the best breweries in the country is in Lawrence, Kansas called Free State Brewery (named such because of Lawrence's role in establishing Kansas as a free state pro-civil war).

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    Tom,

    In Eastern PA (and DC) drink Yuengling.

    In Western PA you got to get "IC" (Iron City)

    In TX drink Shiner Bock.

    And in Chicago, Old Style my friend! Of course, I remember the days of Augsburger in Wrigley Field.

    By the way, can you sell my wife a rug??

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    Jeff, here's why I don't go to the OBF: it never feels very kid friendly to me. The one time I went, it seemed like a load of really, really drunk people slogging around in the dust.

    Not knocking, just wondering. Are there any taste fests held in taverns or restaurants where we can safely bring the kiddies?

  • Tom Civiletti (unverified)
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    paul g.,

    Yep, have her call or email: lambandloom at comcast.net

  • Displaced Oregano (unverified)
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    "In other parts of the country, pubs are filled with people drinking straw-pale light lager"

    Field report: I worked a couple months in small-town Texas this spring. One local establishment had $5 pitchers. They had a full spectrum of choices: Bud Light, Miller Lite, Coors Light, or Keystone Light. What is it with Texas? A few places could serve a Shiner Bock, honorably mentioned above, but not many.

  • Displaced Oregano (unverified)
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    "In other parts of the country, pubs are filled with people drinking straw-pale light lager"

    Field report: I worked a couple months in small-town Texas this spring. One local establishment had $5 pitchers. They had a full spectrum of choices: Bud Light, Miller Lite, Coors Light, or Keystone Light. What is it with Texas? A few places could serve a Shiner Bock, honorably mentioned above, but not many.

  • Displaced Oregano (unverified)
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    "In other parts of the country, pubs are filled with people drinking straw-pale light lager"

    Field report: I worked a couple months in small-town Texas this spring. One local establishment had $5 pitchers. They had a full spectrum of choices: Bud Light, Miller Lite, Coors Light, or Keystone Light. What is it with Texas? A few places could serve a Shiner Bock, honorably mentioned above, but not many.

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    I've tried some of the Henry's brews, and they don't measure up.

    Henry's IPA.

    Jeff, here's why I don't go to the OBF: it never feels very kid friendly to me.

    Totally true. The OBF's niche in the Oregon brewing scene is a big party. There are events galore across the state that are appropriate for kids. The Organic Beer Fest is much more mellow, is in a nice park, and allows kids. That would be a nice one to put on your summer calendar. (Oh, and the beers are better. Shhhh....)

  • Tom Civiletti (unverified)
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    Henry's IPA

    That's one I have not tried, but will. Thanks, Jeff.

  • Steve (unverified)
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    The three best beers in the world are

    1) Deschutes Mirror Pond Ale (from Bend) 2) Bridgeport IPA (from Portland) 3) Full Sail Ale (from Hood River)

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